David’s lap desk

Living full-time in a 40-foot motorhome while continuing to work poses some challenges. One is simply where to work.

For those who don’t know, I am self-employed as a macOS and iOS app developer. My company is Dejal; I am the developer of Time Out for Mac, a popular break reminder tool, and Simon for Mac, a pro tool to monitor websites and servers for changes or failures, plus a couple of iOS apps. I also do macOS and iOS consulting, helping other people create great apps — currently SheetPlanner for Mac (and soon iPad), a powerful spreadsheet/planning tool, and NewsBlur for iPhone and iPad, a popular RSS reader.

When we were considering what kind of RV to buy, we considered toy-hauler fifth-wheel trailers, so we could convert the garage area into an office. Or a fiver or motorhome with bunks, that could be removed and converted into a tiny office; I quite liked the look of the Fleetwood Discovery LXE 44B, with the bunks at the rear.

Ultimately a dedicated office wasn’t deemed an essential feature. When we decided on a Tiffin Allegro Bus motorhome, one point in its favor was a pull-out keyboard tray at one of the dining seats.

But after we actually bought our coach, it turned out that the most convenient desk for me was a simple lap tray. (And we eventually removed that keyboard tray as part of making a liquor cupboard.)

I already had a lap desk that I had used for TV dinners in the homestead, and it works very well for a laptop, too. I can sit on our couch and work comfortably, or take it outside. I’m writing this sitting on a swing seat on a nice sunny day (in the shade of our awning):

David and lap desk

More often I use it while sitting on the couch, sometimes with Paladin’s assistance:

David and Paladin

To make it more portable, I have velcroed my MacBook Pro to the lap desk, using self-adhesive velcro dots. So it can be removed, but typically remains attached. It’s secure enough that I routinely carry the tray around by its handle, with the laptop hanging in space.

I also velcroed a portable solid state drive to the tray; it is my backup drive. And the tray has a slot where I can temporarily put my iPhone or another drive.

SSD

I find the built in keyboard, trackpad, and display of my laptop to be perfectly adequate for my needs. But when I want a little more screen space, I can attach a SideTrak Swivel 12.5” display, giving me plenty more room for reference material or an app I’m debugging.

SideTrak screen

The display is magnetically attached to a plate on the lid of the laptop:

SideTrak screen

So when not needed, it can be simply unplugged and pulled off:

SideTrak screen

This setup works really well for me, giving me the flexibility to work inside or out as the mood (and weather!) dictates.

Adding a bedside Spyder touch panel

Our 2017 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40SP was the first year where Tiffin was easing into touch panels in their coaches, using the Spyder multiplex wiring system. It came with a rather bad black-and-white panel, which I replaced with a much better color one; a huge improvement.

But when in bed, there are only buttons on Jenn’s side of the bed for some functions like lights. One of the things I’m jealous of newer years of our coach is they have more touch panels, including panels on both sides of the bed.

I had previously noticed that there is a Spyder connector below the bed, so I figured I could hook into that.

I resolved to add a panel on my side of the bed, using the same model of touch panel I used to upgrade our main one.

Here’s a look at the small window on my side of the bed (on which we always keep the shades closed), and the small bit of wall next to it:

Window

The bed base, after removing the mattress (you can see the head tilted):

Bed base

By positioning the bed appropriately, the wires under the bed can be accessed; the orange cable is a Spyder network cable, and the connector is visible right of center:

Wires under bed

I ordered components from Spyder Controls Corp:

  1. The panel: KITTW1412 – 2017 5IN LCD UPGRADE KIT BUS PHTN (1 at $349.95)
  2. The G4 tap: 5015508 | 5016592 BBCKZK200 – BACKPLANE ASSY, DROP TAP, G4 COMMON, 4X4 POS 2MM MINI-CLAMP, , Z (1 at $37.44)
  3. A bunch of cable (more than needed; always good to have spare): 14618 BSPL74600 HARNESS ASSY, CUSTOM CABLE , 2 TWISTED PAIR, 24GA, RV-C DROP CABLE ($0.50 per foot)
  4. Some plug connectors: 5066157 CON824204 9787 – CONNECTOR, 4 POS 2MM, MINI CLAMP, BLUE, PLUG, 20-24AWG, C/E, IDC (4 needed at $5.32 each, but I got a spare just in case)
  5. A couple of socket connectors, though not needed for this project: 5066158 CON864204 9788 – CONNECTOR, 4 POS 2MM, MINI CLAMP, BLUE, SOCKET, 20-24AWG, C/E, IDC (none needed, $5.32 each)

Here are the components:

Components

The G4 tap, connectors, and a stripped end of the cable:

G4 tap and connectors

Adding the plug connector is easy; you just insert the four wires into the holes on the connector (in the correct order; black, blue, white, red), then squeeze closed with pliers:

Connector

I made a short cable with plugs on either end to go from the existing socket under the bed to the G4 tap, so I didn’t need to replace the socket with a plug, and could restore the original connection later if desired:

Cable

Here’s the G4 tap in place under the bed, with the original plug and my patch plug inserted; later a third plug from the new panel was inserted:

G4

My original concept was to pull the power outlet off the wall to access inside the wall, and run the Spyder cable down there, but that proved too difficult, so my backup plan was to go through the side of the window valance. So I drilled a hole in the side of the surface mount for the panel:

Hole in panel mount

To get better access close to the wall, I used an angled drill adapter:

Drill

The hole in the window valance:

Hole

To hide the bright orange cable, I used a couple of cable covers that I had on hand:

Cable cover

The cable through the hole:

Cable

Paladin was surprised to discover a window here; he has never seen it before, since as I mentioned we keep those shades down:

Paladin

The cable hidden inside the cable cover under the window and on the back wall (with the bed in its normal position, the cable on the wall is hidden):

Cable

A closer look at the cable cover below the window, secured by a loop of velcro attached to a self-adhesive velcro patch:

Cable cover

The cable cover on the wall:

Cable cover

Velcro loop and self-adhesive patch:

Velcro

A plug on the cable:

Cable

The new panel mounted on the wall and operational:

Panel

This is a huge improvement; I can turn on and off all the lights, toggle the heated floors, see tank levels, and more, all from the comfort of bed. I mostly use it to turn off the lights at night, and turn on the heated floors when I wake up, so they are toasty when getting up. Such decadence!

Professionally cleaning gray and black tanks

The gray and black holding tanks in RVs can get a bit dirty over time, so it is generally recommended to get them professionally cleaned out every year or so, depending on usage. We also have had issues with odors and sensor mis-reads, so thought getting them cleaned might help.

While in the LA area, we engaged All Pro Water-Flow So Cal to flush our tanks; we found them via an ad on the campground map. I can’t whole-heartedly recommend them, though, as they didn’t solve the sensor mis-reads. I’m not sure if the issue was something other than dirty tanks, or perhaps they didn’t do a good enough job. I’ll try to get the sensors looked at during an upcoming service.

The mechanism is simple enough: a hose connects to a pressure washer, with another hose with spray heads that is inserted into each of the tanks in turn, and manipulated to move around inside the tanks, washing their internal surfaces:

Pressure washer

Flushing

Flushing

Flushing

Flushing

Flushing

Water softener regeneration and backflush hoses and adapters

The water softener was a great addition to our coach. But it requires periodic maintenance, to regenerate it every couple of weeks, and backflush it quarterly.

Backflushing it requires reversing the connections, to have water go in the outlet, and dump out the inlet. When I first backflushed it, I used the plastic double-female connector that came with it, with a couple of my quick-connectors:

Backflush adapter

Thusly:

Backflushing

On the output side, I didn’t have a double male adapter, so I just held the hose to my sewer connector, which was a bit messy:

Backflushing

I thought I could do better, so I bought some brass double adapters, which together with my quick-connectors, works much better:

Backflush adapters

Backflush adapters

When a test strip indicates the water coming out of the softener is getting hard, it is time to regenerate it (typically every couple of weeks, depending on where we are). This is done by pouring two containers of table salt into the top of the softener (after turning off the water, of course), then I connect a special hose to a sewer rinse cap, that adapts the water hose to the sewer hose, ensuring I can flush out the salty water without making a mess:

Regenerating

Here’s a closer look at the sewer adapter:

Regenerating

Another couple of pics of regenerating:

Regenerating

Regenerating

I also replaced the hose between the filter and softener with a more flexible one, and added a clear sewer hose adapter so I could see the water flow rate:

Regenerating

(You can also see the cap off the water softener in that pic.)

I do enjoy my plumbing bits. It may seem overly complex, but all those quick connectors and adapters make this required maintenance much easier.

Dryer magnets

The door on the dryer in our coach (yes, we have a washer and dryer) tends to swing closed when open. So I attached a couple of strong magnets to the cupboard and dryer doors to keep it open.

Here are the magnets I used:

Magnets

I attached them to the doors with Glue Dots:

Glue Dots

I do have magnets with self-adhesive backs, but they aren’t as powerful, and I need opposite polarities for each magnet so they stick together, so using the glue dots on the magnets works better:

Glue dot on magnet

A magnet on the dryer door:

Magnet on dryer

And a magnet on the enclosing cupboard door:

Magnet on door

They meet and hold the door open:

Door and dryer

Replaced carbon monoxide detector

RVs all come with a carbon monoxide detector, sometimes called a propane detector. Our coach is all-electric, so doesn’t have any propane on board, but such a detector is still useful.

These detectors are usually rated for 60 months from sale, which is five years. Our 2017 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40SP is six years old, so it wasn’t surprising that the detector in our bedroom recently started to give an end-of-life beep and light flash… at 2 in the morning, of course.

So it was time to replace it.

I ordered another model from Amazon, not doing a very good job of checking for suitability; I hadn’t noticed that the original unit is flush mounted, so a surface mount wouldn’t work (especially being a little smaller, so wouldn’t cover the hole in the wall).

So then I did what I probably should have done, and ordered a replacement of the same model as original from the Tiffin Parts Store, part number 5060082.

Here’s the old carbon monoxide detector:

Old carbon monoxide detector

Unscrewed from the wall:

Unscrewed from wall

It has the manufacture date stamped on the back:

Manufacture date

The new detector from Tiffin:

New detector

It was manufactured in November:

New detector

Some tools to replace it; I got out both the wire caps and heat shrink connectors:

New detector and tools

I decided to use the heat shrink connectors; here they are connected and crimped:

Wires connected

And using the heat gun to shrink them:

Heat gun

All done:

Replaced detector

The light was blinking when I first connected it, which confused me as not one of the listed statuses, but it was just a startup sequence; after a few minutes it was a steady green. I pressed the button to test it, and all was well. Done!

Replaced more recessed lights

Back in November 2021 I replaced some malfunctioning recessed LED lights in the kitchen / galley of our coach.

The half bath also had three lights that weren’t working properly, either very dim or flashing. We have a couple of motion-activated lights in there, and generally don’t use the ceiling lights, so it hasn’t been a high priority. But I finally got around to fixing them.

Here’s one of the old lights, with the cover removed:

Old light

A replacement light:

New light

I replaced the first of the three lights with wire nuts, as I had for the previous replacements, but for the second I thought I’d try heat shrink wire connectors, since that is what Tiffin used throughout the coach:

Heat shrink wire connectors

I got a hot air gun to use with those:

Heat gun

The replaced light, using those connectors, before heat shrinking:

Replaced light

Done:

Replaced light

The third light was trickier. The wires were very short; too short to use those connectors:

Short wires

But I came across a cunning technique: putting a wire cap in the end of a drill, to get more reach and leverage in twisting them on:

Wire cap in drill

It wasn’t easy, but I got them connected using that technique:

Wires connected

The replaced light mounted:

Replaced light

And with the cover on:

Replaced lights

All three replaced lights (the ones that are off didn’t need repairing; only the three vanity lights):

Replaced lights

I’m glad to have that repair finally done.

Govee smart thermometers

It can be nice to know what the temperature and humidity is around us, so I added some smart thermometer/hygrometer units to our coach.

To see the current and historical temperature and humidity outside, I added a sensor unit under a slide-out, attached via Command Strips:

Thermometer

I also wanted to monitor the temperature in the wet bay; it has a heater to prevent it getting too cold, since having our plumbing freeze up would be bad, but I wanted to keep an eye on it, just in case:

Wet bay sensor

Those sensors don’t have displays, but for inside I wanted units that not only have sensors, but also display the current values. So I got a couple of units with e-ink displays; here’s the one in the living room, below the smoke detector:

Living room sensor

And the one in the bedroom, between the smoke detector and thermostat (the big temperature on the thermostat is the set level):

Bedroom thermometer

All of these sensors feed data into the Govee Home app, which can show the current values on its home page (along with ugly seasonal graphics):

App

The same screen after the holiday season:

Govee Home screenshot

Tapping on one of the thermometers shows historical data, so I can see how the temperature and humidity have changed over time:

App

Fun fact: that higher humidity was when we were on the coast at Corpus Christi, and the lower humidity was inland at Lockhart; makes quite a difference. And yes, the temperature inside can vary greatly throughout the day; we tend not to run the AC or heaters except for uncomfortably hot or cold weather, preferring to open windows for fresh air when feasible. (Not a cost thing, since we typically don’t pay for electricity at campsites, but it’s quieter, and fresh air is nice.)

Improved tow bar pins

One of the essential components of towing our truck behind our motorhome is the air-powered brake controller, which presses on the brake pedal in the truck when the brake is applied in the coach, using its air braking system. The brake controller is secured to the truck via a D-pin, seen on the right of this picture:

Brake controller

When hooking up for a recent travel day, I noticed that the pin was missing; it must have not been secured and dropped out somewhere. I made do with a zip tie for that trip, and ordered a replacement from the manufacturer. While there, I saw that they had improved pins for the tow bar, too, so I also ordered that:

Tow bar pins and brake controller pins

So now I have a spare brake controller pin, in case I lose it again. And the new tow bar pins are much easier to use. Here’s one of the pins that came with the tow bar; it just has a metal ring that has the locking linchpin attached; it can be difficult to pull out the tow bar pin when disconnecting, if the truck is at an angle:

Old tow bar pin

In use:

Truck connection

Compare to the new tow bar pin; it has the same tethered linchpin, but the big red handle makes it much easier to pull out:

New tow bar pin

In use:

New tow bar pin

A huge improvement, highly recommended.