Using a sewer tote tank and macerator pump to dump waste tanks from the back of our truck

What goes in, must go out. As mentioned last week, sometimes we stay at rustic campgrounds or rallies where there are no sewer hookups. No big deal for up to about a week. But if we’re staying longer, we have a tote tank that can be used to empty our black and gray tanks, enabling us to camp as long as we want.

We bought a Camco Rhino 36-Gallon Portable Camper/RV Tote Tank from Amazon:

Tote tank box

They (and RVers generally) recommend getting a tank big enough to fit the capacity of the RV’s waste tanks, but that advice is geared towards smaller RVs — our motorhome has a 70 gallon gray tank and 50 gallon black tank, so we need to take two trips to fully empty each.

The instructions that came with the tank:

Manual

Manual

I also got a Tote Tank Gauge for it, that indicates when the tank is getting full; important since the capacity is smaller than the tanks in our coach:

Fill gauge

I didn’t bother installing the ladder hook, since we don’t have a ladder on our coach. In the future I might add a bar to our towbar to mount a rack onto. But for now I store the tank in the bed of our truck, wrapped in a cover:

Covered tote tank in truck

Here’s the tote tank (when it was brand new):

Tote tank

Tote tank

It has wheels at the back and front; the front wheels can be steered; I normally don’t attach the handle, though:

Wheel

There is a valve on the side to dump the contents:

Dump valve

And a second valve on top for filling, though this can also be used for dumping by tilting the tank vertically:

Fill valve

I also purchased a macerator pump:

Macerator pump

Normally one would position the tote tank next to the wet bay, and use gravity to fill it from the RV’s tanks, then hook the tank to a tow bar or wheel it manually to the campground dump station.

But I wanted to keep it in the bed of our truck, so I could easily drive it to the dump station. So I use the macerator pump to chop up any solids and pump it all uphill into the truck:

Macerator pump

Another time, I attached the macerator directly to the port (with a clear tube); the downside was getting a little water in the wet bay when disconnecting (if the tank isn’t completely drained):

Maserator attached directly

The tank in the back of the truck:

Tank

The hose (only used for this purpose) goes from the macerator to the fill valve on top:

Hose

Both the water bladder and the sewer tote fit quite nicely together in the bed of the truck:

Water bladder and tote

Water flowing into the tank:

Water flowing into tank

Water flowing into tank

Fill gauge:

Fill gauge

The fill gauge rising up as it nears capacity:

Gill gauge

Once the tote is full (or the RV’s tanks are empty), I drive the truck to the campground’s dump station, hook up a sewer hose to the side valve, and empty the tank:

Dumping from tank in truck

Much more convenient than dragging the tote behind the truck. And like the water bladder, lets us stay indefinitely even in a campground without a sewer hookup.

Refilling our fresh tank with a water bladder and pump

We usually stay at full-hookup campgrounds, as we enjoy our creature comforts. But occasionally we stay at more rustic campgrounds or rallies where there isn’t a water faucet in our site. If a week or less, we just avoid doing laundry, long showers, and using our rear toilet (as that is a macerating one that uses more water on each flush), and can cope without difficulties.

But if we’re staying longer, we have the ability to refill our fresh water tank via a water bladder and pump.

I bought an Aquatank II water bladder from Amazon, a drinking-water-safe flexible water container with a 60 gallon capacity. It folds up really small for when we don’t need it, and fits in the bed of our truck when in use.

Our fresh tank is 90 gallons, so it takes two loads if totally empty, though I usually do one load when it’s about halfway.

Here it is empty, spread out in the bed of our truck. It has an upper hose fitting for adding water, and a lower hose fitting underneath for draining:

Water bladder

I drive the truck to the potable water supply at the campground, and use a hose to connect it to the water bladder:

Hose from potable water supply

I use a water meter to track how much I’ve added:

Water meter

The water bladder mostly full:

Mostly full water bladder

50 gallons:

Water bladder

I then drive back to our campsite, and use an electric pump to get the water into our coach, via the usual filters and water softener as I use for campsite hookups:

Pump

(I also got a drill pump as an emergency backup.)

The electric pump is about 16 PSI:

Gauges

The water bladder during draining:

Water bladder

It takes about an hour to do the full fill and empty cycle, depending on the water pressure at the campground. Definitely not as convenient as a faucet at our site, but when we don’t have one, this solution lets us stay longer without having to worry as much about water usage.

Fixing black tank flush

The black tank flush on my coach stopped working. Apparently this is a common problem, if the flush nozzles get gummed up with crud or water calcification.

One of the members of my Tiffin Allegro Bus 2016-2018 Owners group on Facebook did a post about fixing theirs, which was very helpful. So I embarked on this adventure too.

The hardest thing is getting to it. I needed to remove this panel from the side of the coach:

Panel

The right side is easy enough, with a couple of brackets and screws easily accessed with the adjacent basement door open:

Bracket and screws

But the left side was tricker, with no door there, so I needed to insert a screwdriver between two panels. To protect the paint, I wrapped the screwdriver shaft with painters tape:

Screwdriver with painters tape

Then inserted the screwdriver to reach the four screws:

Screwdriver

That done, I was able to remove the panel:

Removed panel

The fresh water fill hose limited how much I could move the panel:

Fresh water fill

So I disconnected that too:

Disconnected

My little folding work stool was very helpful for this operation:

Stool and tools

Let’s have a look around, since I don’t get to see this stuff often. Here’s the black tank; the green circuit board is the See-Level tank sensor, and the yellow rectangle is one of the two sensors for the rear toilet (the other is above that, obscured by wires):

Black tank

To the left of the black tank is the gray water tank:

Gray tank

Below both waste tanks is the fresh water tank; the pipe in the foreground is the overflow and vent:

Fresh water tank and overflow

Pipes and wires from the bedroom and rear bathroom:

Pipes and wires

The horizontal-ish pipes are for the central vacuum system:

Vacuum

On the other side of that wall, a vacuum inlet and hatch in the adjacent compartment (we don’t use this vacuum; preferring to use a cordless stick vac):

Vacuum

Anyway, to business. Here’s the culprit, the “No-Fuss” Flush:

No-Fuss Flush

I removed it from the black tank; a bit gunky:

Removed

Cleaned up somewhat:

Cleaned

I tested it, but it still didn’t work very well, so I drilled out the holes a bit more (on the bottom and sides):

Drilled

That solved it; the holes sprayed nicely.

To re-mount, I used plumbers putty to seal it:

Plumbers putty

And re-mounted it (the water is from testing it):

Re-attached

Then just a matter of re-attaching the fresh water fill hose and re-mounting the coach panel.

All better now. Hopefully I won’t have to do that again any time soon, but it wasn’t particularly difficult, other than removing and re-attaching the coach panel.

Replacing bathroom faucets and soap dispensers

Jenn didn’t like the bathroom faucets and soap dispensers that came with our coach, as the faucets were rather splashy, and the dispensers let water into them, diluting the soap.

So we bought replacements from Home Depot, and I installed them.

Here’s the old faucet in the rear bathroom:

Old faucet

The new faucet:

New faucet

New faucet

Looking under the sink, one can see manifolds of hoses to various parts of the bathroom (sink, toilet, shower, and washing machine); the sink hot and cold connectors are on the top:

Hoses

This being an RV, of course the hose for the faucet was non-standard, so I needed to get a “hex nipple” to adapt the 1/2 inch MIP hose connectors:

Hex nipple

Disconnected:

Disconnected

The old and new faucets:

Old and new faucets

A new hose, with the hex nipple adapter on the left, and the adapter that came with the faucet on the right:

Hose and adapters

Holes in the counter for the faucet and dispenser:

Holes

New hoses connected:

New hoses connected

New soap dispenser:

New soap dispenser

The soap dispenser bottle installed:

With soap dispenser

The new faucet and soap dispenser installed:

New faucet and soap dispenser

New faucet and soap dispenser

Similarly, the old soap dispenser and faucet in the half bath:

Old faucet in half bath

Hoses under the half bath sink, nicely labeled:

Hoses under half bath sink

Disconnected hoses:

Disconnected hoses under half bath sink

The new faucet mounted:

New faucet mounted

Connected hoses under the half bath sink:

Hoses under half bath sink

Hoses under half bath sink

The installed new soap dispenser and faucet in the half bath:

New soap dispenser and faucet in half bath

New soap dispenser and faucet in half bath

Finally, I also replaced the soap dispenser in the kitchen. That was the most difficult to get to. I accessed it by removing the drawers:

Behind kitchen drawers

A peek of the old soap bottle:

Soap bottle

To install the new one, I reached back through the drawers space and poked the assembled soap bottle and tube up through the hole, before screwing the top on:

Soap bottle and tube

The new soap dispenser in the kitchen:

New soap dispenser in kitchen

Fresh tank flush

Every six months we sanitize the pipes and fresh water tank in our coach using diluted bleach.

As part of that process, we run the water though the taps, down the drains, then flush them out with fresh water.

But to get the last of the bleachy water out of the fresh tank, I open the fresh tank drain. But I don’t want to just dump that water on the ground, so I rigged up a temporary pipe and quick-connect to hook up to the sewer pipe via the hose sewer rinse cap:

Fresh tank drain

Fresh tank drain

Plumbing

Fridge latch repair

Our coach has a residential-sized fridge/freezer:

Fridge

In order to keep the doors closed as we drive down the road, they have catches and latches, that require a somewhat firm tug to open. Here’s the catch above the right door:

Hook

The latch on that door had a crack in it, which didn’t prevent it from working, but it was more rough than usual:

Broken latch

So I bought some replacement catches and latches, and replaced it. You can see the broken one at the bottom, and a new replacement above it:

Catches and latches

Now the door opens much more smoothly. An easy fix.