Ceiling fan motor replacement

Our coach has a ceiling fan in the bedroom, which is nice when it’s warm:

Ceiling fan

But it has been squeaking when turning in the blowing down direction (but not when in reverse). I asked the Tiffin techs about it at the rally, and they said it’s a common issue, and the solution was to replace the motor. So I ordered a replacement:

Motor

Motor

I started the repair by removing the nut and washers holding the blades:

Removed nut and washers holding blades

Then removed the motor cover:

Motor

And dismounted the motor:

Dismounted motor

I then cut the wires to remove the old motor, dismounted the retaining cord, and attached the new motor:

David

Then I connected the wires, and mounted the new motor to the ceiling. But when I went to attach the cover, it turned out that the cover holes didn’t quite line up with those in the new motor:

Holes

So I used a couple of washers to adjust the position:

Washers

Washers between the ceiling and motor, to make the cover holes line up:

Mounted

Covered:

Covered

The blades reattached:

Blades reattached

All better!

Here’s a GIF of it working:

GIF

Window latch repair

The window next to the passenger seat in our coach got stuck, as the left-side latch pin stopped working. So I ordered a replacement latch for it. Here’s the window:

Window

The first step in replacing it was to remove the handle, attached by a couple of screws underneath:

Handle

This is the latch knob exposed underneath:

Latch

Removing the plastic cover (that just snaps off), you can see latch pins that hold the window closed and in various open positions on either side of the window; they are connected to the knob by a lightweight bit of plastic:

Latches

A closer look at the left latch pin:

Latch

Closer still, you can see the broken connection; that tiny bit of plastic coming out of the latch should be connected to the slightly wider bit of plastic leading to the knob:

Broken connection

I bought a couple of replacement latch pins from Tiffin (so I’d have a spare in case another window latch breaks in the future):

Replacement latches

I removed the broken latch:

Removed latch

A new one on top, compared to the broken one on bottom:

Latches

The replaced latch:

Replaced latch

Both latch pins and the knob:

Latches

I then replaced the cover and handle, and all finished:

Finished

Starlink internet

A couple of months ago I wrote a post on our cellular internet options, where I mentioned that we recently got Starlink satellite as an additional option.

Starlink is a satellite-based service from SpaceX, that uses thousands of small satellites in a low Earth orbit to blanket most of the globe. Older satellite systems use geostationary satellites, that orbit at the same rate as the planet rotation to stay in the same relative position in the sky all the time, which requires that they are further out, resulting in higher latency, i.e. slower response times. By using lots of satellites orbiting much lower down, Starlink can be much more responsive.

We don’t use Starlink all the time, but in some situations it is the best option, e.g. when we are in an area with no or limited cell coverage. For example, at a recent park we had no T-Mobile or AT&T coverage, only Verizon — but we have limited data available via that network. So we set up the Starlink dish for unlimited data.

The speed can vary widely, anything from 1 to 120 Mbps down, and 1 to 20 Mbps up, with ping times of about 30 to 120 ms, which is comparable to cellular connections. Not bad for a sky connection.

We got residential Starlink, with portability to let us access the network while roaming around. Starlink now offers a RV-specific plan, though it isn’t any better a plan; actually it’s worse, as the data rate can be more limited.

Here’s our unboxing:

Starlink box

The dish and stand:

Starlink unboxing

Below that, the router and cable:

Starlink unboxing

The dish set up in our coach; the marks on it suggest that it was refurbished, something that I gather was fairly common:

Starlink dish

I put the Starlink router on the edge of a basement compartment, below a power outlet; the cord goes out the bottom of the door:

Starlink router

The rectangular Starlink dish; in typical SpaceX and Elon Musk fashion, it is named “Dishy McFlatface”:

Starlink dish

When setting it up in a breezy environment, I secure it to the ground using long screws and washer-like discs (that came from stakes; screws are easier to deal with than hammering in stakes):

Screw

I also got the Starlink Ethernet adapter, though don’t currently use it, since routing an Ethernet cable is extra hassle; I just connect to the Starlink router’s Wi-Fi via the Pepwave modem; perhaps not quite as fast, but convenient:

Starlink Ethernet adapter

(One day I want to figure out a way to permanently route an Ethernet cable from the basement to the internet cupboard, but I haven’t thought of anything satisfactory yet.)

When positioning the Starlink dish, its app has a handy tool to check the visibility; you can point the phone camera at the sky to get a visualization and report of obstructions, to help find the best spot:

Starlink visibility app screenshot

I initially stored the dish in the original box, but a better solution was suggested in the Starlink for RVers and other mobile users group on Facebook: a Husky 12-gallon container is a perfect size to fit the dish along with the packaging material, simply by cutting off the bottom part of the packaging, like so:

Husky container

The dish and stand then fits in nicely:

Husky container

And the cable on top (and some people put the router there too, but I keep it in my basement compartment):

Husky container

The closed container:

Husky container

I keep the Starlink container in a basement compartment, safely stored until next needed:

Husky container in basement

Starlink is a great option when there isn’t cellular service.

Coach Proxy

I bought a Coach Proxy device for our 2017 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40SP coach.

This is hardware and web-based software to remotely control the Spyder coach systems like lights, fans, etc. Everything that can be done from the main touch panel.

It is also obsolete technology that has a new lease of life. It was a commercial product a few years ago, but was discontinued. But many people enjoyed it, so it was released as an open source project, and some people have continued to make hardware for it using off-the-shelf components.

The device I purchased was an example of that; it was made by a guy named David Earnest, housed in a 3D-printed case:

Coach Proxy hardware

Coach Proxy hardware

The logic board is actually from a Raspberry Pi 400, with another board to interface with the Spyder network:

Coach Proxy hardware

I had a spare Spyder connector under the dash, so I mounted the box there:

Mounted and Spyder connection

The software side is a web app powered by that hardware, with controls for the various lights etc. Here is the top of the Interior page of Coach Proxy, with the main lights; the ones with a slider can be dimmed:

Coach Proxy controls

Scrolling down, the living room TV lift (that TV raises up in front of a window when wanted), and more lights. At the bottom the MEM ON turns on the lights that were on when the ALL OFF was used:

Coach Proxy controls

On to the shade controls; day and night shades on the driver and passenger sides, or all at once:

Coach Proxy controls

The Exterior page has lights, locks, and water systems:

Coach Proxy controls

The Climate page has fans and heated floors (very nice in cool weather):

Coach Proxy controls

A nice thing one can do via Coach Proxy that one can’t do via the touch panel is assign presets, to turn on or off custom sets of lights; I just have a couple so far:

Coach Proxy controls

The Status page has tank levels and power stuff:

Coach Proxy controls

The Notifications page lets me get a notice when certain conditions occur:

Notifications

Plus there are a couple more pages for settings, including options to set up remote access, so these controls can be changed when away from the coach via a secure connection.

A very useful device.

Water quick connectors and gauges

I have a history of overly complicated plumbing at our former homestead, and having an RV hasn’t prevented that hobby. But always for good reasons.

To make hooking up our fresh water supply components easier, I have added some hose quick connectors, that clip together very easily:

Quick connectors

The first of these is at the tap, in case I want to disconnect due to sub-freezing temperatures. Following that connector is a two-way splitter, with a hose on one side, and a pressure gauge on the other:

Tap, splitter, gauge

This gauge is useful so I can see the pressure of the water supply (which I note in my campground reviews); the black needle indicates the current pressure, and the red needle indicates the maximum pressure:

Gauge

Here they are at another campsite, with a frost-free tap (lowering the handle not only shuts off the water, but also drains the water out of the vertical pipe, so it doesn’t freeze and burst):

Tap, splitter, gauge

At the other end of that hose is a second splitter, with one side going to a flexible cleanout hose, and the other going to a pressure regulator (set to a maximum of 60 PSI, though not approaching that at this campground), another quick connector, and the water filters:

Splitter, pressure regulator, quick connect

On the other side of the filters is another quick connector (so I can disconnect and put it away on travel days), and another gauge, to check the output water pressure (not very high at this campground):

Quick connect, gauge

Here are a couple of pictures showing both sides of the filters (the orange hose in the background is the “stinky slinky”, i.e. sewer hose, on a ramp for proper drainage):

Filters

View from above

The other end of the aforementioned cleanout hose has a built-in valve, and I added a quick connector:

Qucik connect on hose

That connector has a mate and a valve on the black tank flush port; this port is used to rinse out the black (toilet) tank:

Valve and quick connect

Here is the hose connected and both valves turned on:

Connected and on

When I’m done, I can simply turn off these two valves (and the one back at the splitter), and easily disconnect, without any mess:

Connected and off

Nice improvements.

Ceiling AC filters

In the ceiling of our motorhome are a series of register and return vents for the three ceiling AC units; the air is sucked in on the right side, cooled (or heated), and blown out the left side:

Ceiling vents

Here’s a closer view of one of the intake vents:

Ceiling vent

Looking on the reverse side, you can see that each of them includes a foam filter to catch dust:

Ceiling vent

These filters need to be cleaned every few months. But we decided to try some replaceable filters from RV Air, that should do a better job than just a thin bit of foam:

Filters

A comparison of the new and old filters:

Filters

An old filter, showing the collected dust:

Filter

The new filter installed:

Filters

The vent back in the ceiling:

Ceiling vent

About half of the ceiling vents are a different kind, for some reason:

Ceiling vent

These ones are attached via a clip in the middle, so need a different style of filter:

Filters

We’ll see how these new filters perform; I think they’ll be an improvement.

Emergency labels

An excellent idea from the Tiffin Allegro Bus 2016-2018 Owners group on Facebook: I added labels by the door of our RV with our contact information, and that we have a cat inside, in case there’s an emergency like a fire while we’re away from the coach.

To catch the eye a bit, I bought a red “IN CASE OF EMERGENCY CALL 911” sticker from Amazon, and cut out the first couple of lines:

In case of emergency label

Then used my label maker to print labels with our phone numbers, and “CAT INSIDE”. We decided to add them next to the door for better visibility, even when the slide-outs are in:

In case of emergency labels

In case of emergency labels

Hopefully nobody will ever need this information, but it’s good to have it, just in case.

Internet cupboard

I previously posted about our internet services, with a picture of the cupboard above the entry door that contains the cellular modem:

Pepwave modem:

I decided to consolidate the internet stuff into this cupboard. So I hatched a plan to run a power cord from the outlet above the windshield to that cupboard:

Cupboards

I removed panels in those cupboards:

Removing panel

Removing panel

The mess of cables behind the panel in the front cupboard:

Behind panel

I used my drill with a large bit:

Drill

…to cut a hole in the panel:

Hole

…to fit a grommet:

IMG 1720

…for the power cord, which I pulled through by tying a strap to it:

Cord

Getting the cord through the small gap behind this speaker was rather tricky (I lost a bunch of skin):

Wire

…but I managed in the end:

Cord

I installed another grommet in this panel:

Grommet

The cord then plugged in to the power outlet (the front TV also plugs in there, and for some reason the top outlet only receives power when the ignition is on… maybe I should plug my dashcam into that?):

Power connection

The other end of the cord has a power strip with electrical and USB outlets:

Power

Then I moved the other internet devices into the cupboard:

Internet cupboard

In addition to the modem, it contains the MiFi hotspot:

MiFi

The power strip:

IMG 1739

A fan to cool the modem, as it gets rather hot:

Fan

And the security camera base unit, that has an Ethernet connection to the modem:

Camera base

I subsequently removed the door of this cupboard, since I was leaving it open for airflow:

Internet cupboard

It’s not super tidy, but it’s nice to have everything in one place.

Cellular internet

We are both still working as we travel the country in our motorhome, so having reliable internet access is essential.

To that end, we have six internet options: two cellular plans (AT&T and Verizon) in a cellular modem, one cell plan (T-Mobile) via a Wi-Fi hotspot device, two iPhones (AT&T), and (very recently) Starlink satellite internet.

And sometimes we connect to campground Wi-Fi, when available, though our various options are usually faster and more reliable.

Having four different networks and a variety of devices ensures that almost anywhere we are, we can connect to the internet.

Some details about the plans:

  • T-Mobile (via 5G Wi-Fi hotspot): unlimited data; plan provided by the Calyx Institute. This is what we’ve used the most, being truly unlimited.
  • AT&T (LTE SIM in cellular modem): 800 GB data; plan provided by Mobile Must Have. A good backup option, though often not very fast.
  • Verizon (5G SIM in cellular modem): 150 GB data; pre-paid plan from Verizon. Often the fastest cellular option, but very limited data, so we don’t use it much.
  • AT&T (iPhones): unlimited data; plans and phones provided by Apple Upgrade Program. We use these a lot as standalone devices. They only have 40 GB data as a personal hotspot, so we don’t tether other than emergencies.
  • Starlink (satellite): unlimited data; plan and dish provided by Starlink. We’ll probably use this the most going forward, if it proves to be reliable enough (and if our campsites can see enough of the sky).

I’ll cover Starlink in a separate post later, once we’ve spent more time with it — as of this post, we’ve only had it for a few days.

This is the T-Mobile Wi-Fi hotspot; we can connect to it directly, but most of the time we go via the modem, which also connects to it:

MiFi

The modem has a roof-mounted antenna (the white fin in the following picture), which we got from Mobile Must Have, and installed by NIRVC; a Poynting 7-in-1 Roof Antenna. It contains 4 cell antennas, 2 WiFi antennas, and a GPS antenna:

Roof antenna

Zoomed out a bit:

Roof antenna

The antenna connects to the Pepwave MAX Transit modem (also from MMH), which contains the AT&T and Verizon SIMs (and can support two more). NIRVC mounted it in a cupboard above our entry door:

Pepwave modem:

See a later post about some further modifications to this cupboard.

Chair armrest adjustment

Our coach has fold-down arms on the two cockpit chairs. When we bought it, one of the arms of the passenger chair was too low. We figured that someone had put too much weight on it and broken it:

Passenger chair

Armrest too low

However, I recently learned a trick: inside the small hole at the end of the armrest is an adjustment lever. One can put a finger in there and lift up the lever below the hole, and adjust the resting height of the armrest:

Hole with adjustment lever

So now yay, it’s all better:

Adjusted armrest

Mind blown! 🤯

Learn something new every day.