Our water pump was randomly cutting out. I determined that the power connections were loose, so decided to replace the wire nuts with Wago ones, which are easier to use, and hopefully more reliable.

The pump, with boring wire nuts:

Replaced with Wago wire nuts:

Since we drink the water in our fresh water tank, it is important to keep it clean. In addition to five filters, that we replace every three months, every six months we use bleach to sanitize the tank and pipes in our coach. This involves diluting 12 ounces of bleach in the water tank (about half full), running it through the pipes until we can smell the bleach, then filling the water tank and leaving it overnight, and finally flushing it out with a couple of dump/fill cycles.

Previously, we tried adding the bleach via a small inline container hooked to the hose, but it was too small for the amount of bleach required. We also tried mixing the bleach in a bucket and pouring it in the gravity fill for our tank, but that wasn’t ideal either.

But I came up with another idea: I purchased a filter system with a clear canister, and put the bleach in that, without the filter itself, and connected it to my hoses (with quick connectors, naturally). It’s bigger than needed, but better too big than too small. And is much easier to add the bleach without risking spilling any:

That was much easier!

While in Red Bay I chatted with a neighboring Tiffin owner about plumbing bits (always a fun topic, for me anyway), and he showed me his Eley hose quick connectors. I was impressed; they were much nicer than the cheap ones I had been using, that I got from Amazon.

Better how, you no doubt ask with bated breath? Perhaps the most exciting thing for me is that one can just push them together without having to pull the release mechanism; that saves a lot of effort and time, milliseconds and milliseconds each time!

The release mechanism is much the same as most quick connects, pulling back on the outer ring. But the implementation is a bit better, with stainless steel bars holding the connectors together. And (one thing that confused me at first) they also have a safety feature where the connectors can’t be separated while under pressure, preventing messy accidents.

Another benefit is a wide aperture, so they don’t restrict the water flow.

The only downside of these connectors is that they are several times more expensive than the cheap ones, at about $27 for each pair (you can buy in units of 1-4 of each side). But you get what you pay for.

Based on that recommendation, I bought a bunch of them; each plug and socket comes in a cute twist-together container (that we gave to Mom to repurpose in some craft project):

A closer look at the plugs and sockets:

I also got a shut-off valve, a different design than the usual ball valve lever:

Here’s an example of them in use, with quick connects at the campground faucet (which makes it easier to disconnect), and before and after a 4-way splitter, and when connecting to the coach, as visible in the previous picture:

I use a 4-way splitter, with one outlet having a pressure gauge to check the pressure of the campground supply, one quick connect that I attach a second hose to for filling a bucket etc, a quick connect to a pressure regulator (and another quick connect after that), and a spare regular hose thread, often used to depressurize the hose:

I sometimes add a third gauge after the pressure regulator, to confirm the reading, also with quick connects:

Yes, I do enjoy my plumbing bits, and one could perhaps even suggest that I might get a bit too carried away, if one felt like being wrong. But hey, it’s a hobby. And useful! The quick connects etc make my life easier when moving campsites, as we do weekly on average.

Like most RVs, our motorhome has a wet bay where one hooks up the incoming fresh water supply and drains the gray and black waste tanks. Our wet bay came with an electric hose reel, and a single filter for water quality.

Here’s what it looked like:

For a while, I’ve had an external water softener to deal with hard water in various parts of the country, and a three-stage water filter system:

But lugging those in and out of a storage bay every time we changed campsites was a bit of a pain. So I came up with a plan to get them both mounted inside the coach, so I don’t need to do that each time.

I engaged Dillon Massey of DC Plumbing & General Repair in Red Bay, Alabama to do this for me.

Here’s a rough sketch that I drew, to help explain my plan to Dillon:

A little complex, perhaps, but it seemed logical to me. The hose from the campground faucet would be attached to a connector in the wet bay, then would split to a built-in black tank flush valve and a hose to the water filters mounted in a cargo bay. The water would then go from the filters to a three-way valve to the water softener and a connector for backflushing or regenerating the water softener, with another three-way valve and connector after the softener, then on to the existing systems.

The idea of the two three-way valves and connectors was to have water normally flow from the filter through the softener and onwards, but by turning the valves and attaching an input hose to the first connector and an output hose to the second connector, I could regenerate the softener, where one adds salt to it and flushes it out (without getting salt in the rest of the system), a maintenance process I need to do every couple of weeks in hard water areas. Or by reversing those hoses, I could backflush the softener, i.e. have water flow in the reverse normal direction only through the water softener, something I need to do every three months.

These enhancements were admittedly unusual; Dillon had mounted water softeners in wet bays many times before, but had never before done valves and connectors like this to backflush and regenerate. Normally, people would disconnect and remove the water softener when doing those servicing operations, but I wanted to be able to do it more easily.

In preparation for the work, while staying at Red Bay Acres, I cleared out the plumbing bits from the wet bay and nearby cargo compartment:

Dillon removed panels at the top of the wet bay, moved the electrical outlet, and removed the hose reel, which I didn’t want anymore, both to provide space for the water softener, and because I didn’t use it anyway; I preferred to connect a more flexible hose:

The removed panels; I had the idea to reverse them from how they were before, which provided more space in the wet bay, enabling adding salt to the water softener more easily (compare the picture of the wet bay at the start of this post to how it looks at the end of this post):

There wasn’t room in the wet bay for the three-stage water filters, so my plan was to install them in the nearby cargo bay, mounted on the wall (to avoid interfering with the cargo slide):

Here are the fllters installed there, with hoses connecting to the wet bay:

He also added a valve to connect the water system directly to the black tank flush, so I don’t need to connect a hose to rinse out the black tank, though the valve is a little hard to reach:

The three-way valves and connectors; unfortunately the spacing wasn’t ideal, so the left valve only barely cleared the right connector, but it was usable:

Dillon’s mods completed, with new three-way valves and connectors installed in the top panel, the water softener mounted inside the wet bay:

Unfortunately, when I tested the connections later, I discovered that they didn’t match my specifications. Here’s a sketch over a picture of the wet bay, showing how I suspected that the connections were misconfigured:

This meant that while it was fine in the normal (horizontal) valve positions, when turning the valves to the regen/backflush positions (vertical), the left one would connect between the incoming water and the connector, instead of the water softener input and connector. And similarly, the right valve would connect between the rest of the coach and the connector, instead of the water softener output and connector, as it should.

So I sketched how I want to fix that, plus also rearranging the valves and connectors to make them fit better, and adding an easier to reach valve for the black tank flush:

While at NIRVC in the DC area, I got them to make those changes:

They successfully reversed the positions of the left valve and connector, though couldn’t rotate it 90° as requested, so instead trimmed the valve handle to fit better in the space.

Regenerating the water softener involves adding two containers of salt to the top of the unit, which I can do without having to remove it from the wet bay:

Here are the valves in the regenerating configuration, with the input hose connected on the left and the output on the right:

And here are the valves in the backflushing configuration, with the input water on the right, and output on the left:

Much easier. Unfortunately, this saga isn’t quite over: while this works, filling the water tank gets really slow after regenerating. I suspect that the water filters are in the incorrect place in the circuit, so they are getting clogged with the salt. We’ll be back in Red Bay in December, so I’ll get Dillon to investigate and fix it then. In the meantime, I’ll have to disconnect the output of the water softener and connect a hose to it, to avoid this issue. Annoying, but not too difficult.

And when doing that, I discovered that even with the water pump on, no water would flow inside the coach when diverting the softener output. Which tells me that these modifications are after the tank, not before as they should be. The way I designed it, using the valves shouldn’t have any impact on pumping water from the tank into the coach.

Finally, here’s the normal configuration of the valves, where water flows through the filters and softener into the coach. Notice also the new black tank flush valve in the upper-left, that makes it super easy to rinse out the black tank (we kept the valve Dillon installed too, just visible in the lower-right, as a backup):

And notice also the normal water input connector:

I really appreciate not needing to lug the water filters and softener every time we change campsites. And while the regeneration and backflush options still aren’t quite right, I still think they were an excellent idea; I look forward to them working as designed.

Update: after much investigating, I determined that the valves and connectors were okay, just reversed from how I specified. So I was able to simply rotate the water softener, so the input and output were reversed, and swap the labels on the new valves, and now the system works properly. Yay!

Our motorhome has two toilets; an electric gravity toilet in the half bath, and an electric macerating toilet in the rear bathroom. Both have had their issues; in 2021 I needed to replace the flush switch on the half bath toilet, and in 2022 I needed to dismantle the rear toilet to clear out a blockage.

Recently, the rear toilet stopped working again, in much the same way as before, so I figured that I needed to clear a blockage again. Though it was a bit different this time; it would flush first thing in the morning, then stop working again. Which made me think something else was going on. Upon dismantling it, I confirmed that there wasn’t any blockage. Research indicated that the issue was likely the controller unit; apparently our vintage had a known issue where it could overheat and stop working.

So, I ordered a replacement controller. It’s the “Thetford 36398 Toilet Controller for Tecma Silence Plus RV Toilet”. I purchased it from Boat & RV Accessories, as they had it for a good price and could ship it overnight. But it is also available on Amazon from a couple of sellers.

But unfortunately this did not solve the issue. I thought it did, as the toilet worked properly for a few days, but yesterday as we prepared to leave our campsite, it failed again. It’s possible that the new controller went bad, but it seems much more likely to me that the macerator pump is actually the cause. So I guess I need to try replacing that.

On to the pictures. Here’s the toilet in the shower, prior to looking for clogs:

Paladin sniffing the sewer pipe:

I looked where the blockage was before, after the macerator, but it was clear:

So I fully removed the macerator; no blockage anywhere:

The suspect controller:

Work in progress:

The new controller arrived, and even included a copy of the manual:

I put the toilet back in the shower (it had been back in place, though disconnected, while I waited for the part), and removed the old controller:

I added the new controller, and re-installed the macerator:

Then re-installed the toilet, and checked it:

It worked for a few days, but as mentioned above, replacing the controller didn’t solve the issue. Stay tuned for a future post on my next attempt at repairing this toilet! We’re very glad that we have two toilets in our coach, so can make do with using the other one in the meantime.

Just another super glamorous aspect of RV life.

As you may know, I post about RV modification topics every Monday (“Modification Mondays”). I have a long list of potential topics, some smaller than others, so I thought I’d post some of the shorter ones on Thursdays when we don’t have a lot of exploring topics — Thursday for “Tweak Thursdays” (I do enjoy alliteration!). Here’s the first one, about a nice little tweak.

In the wet bay of our motorhome, there is a large hole in the bottom through which one feeds the sewer hose, so the wet bay door can be closed with the hose connected. That is convenient, but it leaves a sizable gap around the hose, through which rodents and such could enter. I previously used some steel wool to close this gap, which worked well, though tended to rust when it got damp, and was a bit of a hassle.

I recently saw a suggestion on Facebook where someone posted about a custom 3D-printed panel that fitted around the sewer hose, and someone else commented that they used one of these flashings instead:

That seemed like a great idea, so I bought one (Amazon link) and installed it by cutting a hole and fitting it around the sewer hose:

I had it around a 2-foot-long hose, so I could disconnect that and pull it up out of the hole for travel days, leaving the flashing around the hose. But that was a bit of a hassle, so I came up with another approach: I got a clear 10” extension pipe, and put the flashing around that:

Plus a 45° adapter:

That will let me leave the pipe and flashing in place, and just remove the 45° adapter for travel days. I just installed this yesterday, so we’ll see how well it works!