Sinclair Trails QR codes

I recently generated a QR code for the Sinclair Trails blog; scanning this code will take you to a variation of the About Sinclair Trails page, that introduces the blog and gives background info about us, our coach, and truck:

QR code

I bought a couple of large stickers with that QR code from a seller on Etsy (the same one I used for the big Sinclair Trails logo sticker), and added the smaller one between the states map and URL on the side of our slide-out:

Map, QR code, URL

From further back:

Map, QR code, URL

The QR code can be read from this far back (or a little further). Here’s a screenshot of the iPhone Camera app reading the QR code:

Camera app

I also added a larger sticker on the back of our coach. I have a ladder, but it was easier (and more stable) to back up our truck to the rear of the coach, and stand on the tailgate:

Truck backed up to rear of coach

Here’s the big QR code on the rear of our coach, so passengers can scan it while passing us on the road:

QR code on rear of coach

Barrier cushions

There are a bunch of wires and stuff under the dash in our coach, which are too tempting for Paladin to play with when he’s in a bratty mood:

Under dash area

So while at Red Bay we got Lindsey & Winchester Drapery to make a custom barrier cushion for that space (something they do for many owners with pets).

Here’s a rough cut of foam for the shape:

Foam

And the final product, delivered later that week:

Barrier cushion

In place:

Barrier cushion

We also got them to make a small barrier for under the bedroom slide-out, to prevent Paladin from pushing things under there:

Barrier cushion

And a block for a larger gap in the corner:

Barrier cushion

These work great. Of course, we remove them for travel days.

Easy reach awning opener

A nice tweak: I found this easy reach awning opener at the Tiffin parts store, and bought two of them. Our coach came with a long pole to reach the window awnings, but it’s a bit of a pain to pull it out of the basement bay, and possibly go around to the other side to get it. With two of these compact extendable tools, we can more easily open the awnings. Handy!

Here’s an Amazon link for the product (probably way cheaper than whatever I paid at Tiffin).

Easy reach awning opener

Tiffin parts store

While at 1st Class Glass I wandered across the road to the Bob Tiffin Service Center, where new owners of Tiffin motorhomes can get servicing done. (We are not eligible, since our coach is a 2017 model; we use third-party vendors instead.)

Bob Tiffin Service Center

Bob Tiffin Service Center

I wanted to visit the parts store to pick up some items. It’s a huge area; I wasn’t sure where to go (and they don’t have great signage). I stopped by the Tiffin Allegro Club office, and they pointed me in the right direction:

Bob Tiffin Service Center

Bob Tiffin Service Center

The service center customer entrance is hidden halfway down this building:

Bob Tiffin Service Center

Bob Tiffin Service Center

Inside, they directed me to the customer parts area, though I had to ask again to find it. It’s a small caged area with a few parts on display, and a counter where one can ask for other parts:

Parts shop

Parts shop

Apparently it used to be much nicer, where people could browse the shelves for parts; now you have to request them. I could find all sorts of goodies if I could explore, but alas, this area beyond the gate is off limits:

Parts shop

Just a few items available within the cage:

Parts shop

Parts shop

Parts shop

Stay tuned for one bonus find, though, coming on tomorrow’s Tweak Thursday.

Sewer hose closure

As you may know, I post about RV modification topics every Monday (“Modification Mondays”). I have a long list of potential topics, some smaller than others, so I thought I’d post some of the shorter ones on Thursdays when we don’t have a lot of exploring topics — Thursday for “Tweak Thursdays” (I do enjoy alliteration!). Here’s the first one, about a nice little tweak.

In the wet bay of our motorhome, there is a large hole in the bottom through which one feeds the sewer hose, so the wet bay door can be closed with the hose connected. That is convenient, but it leaves a sizable gap around the hose, through which rodents and such could enter. I previously used some steel wool to close this gap, which worked well, though tended to rust when it got damp, and was a bit of a hassle.

I recently saw a suggestion on Facebook where someone posted about a custom 3D-printed panel that fitted around the sewer hose, and someone else commented that they used one of these flashings instead:

Pipe flashing

That seemed like a great idea, so I bought one (Amazon link) and installed it by cutting a hole and fitting it around the sewer hose:

Sewer hose enclosure

Wet bay

I had it around a 2-foot-long hose, so I could disconnect that and pull it up out of the hole for travel days, leaving the flashing around the hose. But that was a bit of a hassle, so I came up with another approach: I got a clear 10” extension pipe, and put the flashing around that:

Sewer pipes

Plus a 45° adapter:

Sewer pipes

Sewer pipes

Sewer pipes

That will let me leave the pipe and flashing in place, and just remove the 45° adapter for travel days. I just installed this yesterday, so we’ll see how well it works!

Using a sewer tote tank and macerator pump to dump waste tanks from the back of our truck

What goes in, must go out. As mentioned last week, sometimes we stay at rustic campgrounds or rallies where there are no sewer hookups. No big deal for up to about a week. But if we’re staying longer, we have a tote tank that can be used to empty our black and gray tanks, enabling us to camp as long as we want.

We bought a Camco Rhino 36-Gallon Portable Camper/RV Tote Tank from Amazon:

Tote tank box

They (and RVers generally) recommend getting a tank big enough to fit the capacity of the RV’s waste tanks, but that advice is geared towards smaller RVs — our motorhome has a 70 gallon gray tank and 50 gallon black tank, so we need to take two trips to fully empty each.

The instructions that came with the tank:

Manual

Manual

I also got a Tote Tank Gauge for it, that indicates when the tank is getting full; important since the capacity is smaller than the tanks in our coach:

Fill gauge

I didn’t bother installing the ladder hook, since we don’t have a ladder on our coach. In the future I might add a bar to our towbar to mount a rack onto. But for now I store the tank in the bed of our truck, wrapped in a cover:

Covered tote tank in truck

Here’s the tote tank (when it was brand new):

Tote tank

Tote tank

It has wheels at the back and front; the front wheels can be steered; I normally don’t attach the handle, though:

Wheel

There is a valve on the side to dump the contents:

Dump valve

And a second valve on top for filling, though this can also be used for dumping by tilting the tank vertically:

Fill valve

I also purchased a macerator pump:

Macerator pump

Normally one would position the tote tank next to the wet bay, and use gravity to fill it from the RV’s tanks, then hook the tank to a tow bar or wheel it manually to the campground dump station.

But I wanted to keep it in the bed of our truck, so I could easily drive it to the dump station. So I use the macerator pump to chop up any solids and pump it all uphill into the truck:

Macerator pump

Another time, I attached the macerator directly to the port (with a clear tube); the downside was getting a little water in the wet bay when disconnecting (if the tank isn’t completely drained):

Maserator attached directly

The tank in the back of the truck:

Tank

The hose (only used for this purpose) goes from the macerator to the fill valve on top:

Hose

Both the water bladder and the sewer tote fit quite nicely together in the bed of the truck:

Water bladder and tote

Water flowing into the tank:

Water flowing into tank

Water flowing into tank

Fill gauge:

Fill gauge

The fill gauge rising up as it nears capacity:

Gill gauge

Once the tote is full (or the RV’s tanks are empty), I drive the truck to the campground’s dump station, hook up a sewer hose to the side valve, and empty the tank:

Dumping from tank in truck

Much more convenient than dragging the tote behind the truck. And like the water bladder, lets us stay indefinitely even in a campground without a sewer hookup.

Red Bay Acres RV Resort

We stayed at Red Bay Acres RV Resort in Red Bay, Alabama. (Campground Reviews listing.)

A nice full-hookup RV park in the hometown of Tiffin Motorhomes. Our second stay here.

Dates:

  • Check in: 2024-03-24
  • Check out: 2024-03-31
  • 7 nights

Weather:

  • Partly cloudy, some rain
  • High temps ranging between 63-72°F, lows around 38-52°F
  • One very windy day, gusts to 54 MPH, otherwise negligible

Noise:

  • No road noise
  • No train noise
  • Hourly clock tower noise
  • A little neighbor and tech services noise

Site:

  • #24, back in, concrete
  • Needed to disconnect toad, parked in front of coach
  • Somewhat level; used air and hydraulic leveling at different times
  • Concrete driveway about 60 feet long by about 12 feet wide
  • Grass between sites wedge-shaped, from about 20 to 25 feet wide (their smallest “premium” site)
  • Picnic table on 12 by 12 feet concrete patio; fire pit
  • Clean site

Utilities:

  • 50 amp power, conveniently located
  • 60 PSI water, conveniently located
  • Good sewer connection, fairly conveniently located (1 10-foot pipe needed)

Internet (in usage priority order):

  • T-Mobile: 50 Mbps down, 45 Mbps up, 40 ms ping
  • AT&T: 130 Mbps down, 15 Mbps up, 35 ms ping
  • Verizon: 28 Mbps down, 8 Mbps up, 28 ms ping
  • Starlink: not used
  • Campground Wi-Fi: not used

Amenities:

  • Garbage pickup from site
  • Package delivery to site
  • Onsite restaurant
  • Pond
  • Hometown of Tiffin; local RV repairs

Our review on Campground Reviews (from our previous visit):

Nice place to return to after service

This is the place to stay when in Red Bay for service. It is a beautifully maintained park, with all the sites facing the fishing pond. All the other parks in town were basic gravel lots. The one drawback is having to back in to the site when coming back from service each day, but that’s not a big deal. The concrete pad was nicely level and all the utilities were good. It’s also nice to have the Yacht Club on-site for a bite to eat at the end of the day. If you’re looking to get service done on-site, make sure to check the list of approved vendors. We camped at Red Bay Acres RV Resort in a Motorhome.

Tip for Other Campers: Lost Pines Coffee had decent coffee and baked goods for a midday pick-me-up. The Natchez Trace Parkway is fairly close and a very nice scenic drive.

Campground map:

Map

An interactive map:

Our site this time; again one of the larger corner sites, though this was only barely larger:

Our site

Our site

I used my ladder to check on a leak behind our shower (a loose connection, easily fixed):

Our site

Stuff from basement bays piled up, while doing wet bay enhancements:

Our site

Clearing land behind the park was a little noisy:

Clearing land behind the park

Other sites:

Other sites

Other sites

Other sites

Central pond:

Central pond

Central pond

Central pond

We visited the onsite Red Bay Yacht Club several times (you know, land yachts):

Red Bay Yacht Club

Red Bay Yacht Club

Red Bay Yacht Club

Pond view from inside:

Pond view from inside

We ate some dinners there, including pizza and loaded fries:

Pizza and loaded fries

Desserts:

Dessert

Dessert

Chicken wings and sandwich, while playing Phase 10:

Chicken wings and sandwich

Another night, tacos and more Phase 10:

Tacos

Games:

Games

Dog park:

Dog park

We wandered across the road to the Happy Hollow Outdoors store:

Happy Hollow Outdoors store

Happy Hollow Outdoors

Happy Hollow Outdoors

Refilling our fresh tank with a water bladder and pump

We usually stay at full-hookup campgrounds, as we enjoy our creature comforts. But occasionally we stay at more rustic campgrounds or rallies where there isn’t a water faucet in our site. If a week or less, we just avoid doing laundry, long showers, and using our rear toilet (as that is a macerating one that uses more water on each flush), and can cope without difficulties.

But if we’re staying longer, we have the ability to refill our fresh water tank via a water bladder and pump.

I bought an Aquatank II water bladder from Amazon, a drinking-water-safe flexible water container with a 60 gallon capacity. It folds up really small for when we don’t need it, and fits in the bed of our truck when in use.

Our fresh tank is 90 gallons, so it takes two loads if totally empty, though I usually do one load when it’s about halfway.

Here it is empty, spread out in the bed of our truck. It has an upper hose fitting for adding water, and a lower hose fitting underneath for draining:

Water bladder

I drive the truck to the potable water supply at the campground, and use a hose to connect it to the water bladder:

Hose from potable water supply

I use a water meter to track how much I’ve added:

Water meter

The water bladder mostly full:

Mostly full water bladder

50 gallons:

Water bladder

I then drive back to our campsite, and use an electric pump to get the water into our coach, via the usual filters and water softener as I use for campsite hookups:

Pump

(I also got a drill pump as an emergency backup.)

The electric pump is about 16 PSI:

Gauges

The water bladder during draining:

Water bladder

It takes about an hour to do the full fill and empty cycle, depending on the water pressure at the campground. Definitely not as convenient as a faucet at our site, but when we don’t have one, this solution lets us stay longer without having to worry as much about water usage.

Replacing solar fuse with breaker

As followers of this blog may recall, we had a fuse between our solar panels and the solar controller:

Fuse

I had an issue where that fuse blew a few times, possibly due to our extra solar panels putting out too much power. The most recent time I replaced it with a 30 amp fuse:

Fuse

That didn’t end so well — a few months later, that fuse melted. Perhaps cheap junk, I don’t know; it should just blow, not melt. It set off our smoke detector, so could have been much worse:

Melted fuse

I considered replacing the fuse holder, but figured I needed a better solution. I decided to replace it with a circuit breaker, so if it is over-current again it’ll just pop instead of blow or burn.

I needed a short length of wire to connect it, so went to the nearby Lowes for wire, using 8 gauge wire, the same as used elsewhere in the coach:

Shopping for wire

That was an adventure in itself; the guy who helped us wasn’t familiar with wire cutting, but he figured it out.

Wire

I connected a short length of that wire to the breaker:

Breaker with wire

I then drilled some holes for the wires above the solar controller:

Installing breaker

And reconnected the controller to that wire:

Reconnected controller

Here’s the breaker installed, and preparing to re-mount the controller:

Installing controller

The completed breaker and controller (with the solar pulling in 14.4 amps):

Completed breaker and controller

Here’s hoping this solution will prove satisfactory!