Kenwood DNR1008RVS GPS receiver

The stereo/GPS that came with our coach had a small screen, and was no longer receiving map updates, which makes it hard to rely on it for navigation. So we purchased a replacement, the Kenwood DNR1008RVS; a newer model with a 10.1” display, wireless CarPlay to connect to our iPhones, and map updates.

Here’s the old unit, to the right of the camera display:

Camera and GPS

The old unit removed, and wires for new unit:

Old unit removed, and wires for new unit

The new unit in the dash, without its screen:

New unit in dash, without screen

The screen added:

New unit with screen

It still mirrors to the TV above the windshield:

Still mirrors to TV

Though the screen on the unit is big and clear enough that there’s no need to mirror it; I can easily see it from the passenger seat:

Both screens

New unit

Using the unit with CarPlay:

New GPS

Much better!

Replaced SeeLeveL II panel

In the wet bay of our coach is a SeeLeveL II tank monitor panel, that shows the battery, fresh tank, grey tank, and black tank levels:

SeeLeveL II panel

The panel stopped working, and I had it replaced less than a year ago, but it got wet and stopped working again when doing recent wet bay mods, so I needed to replace it again. Rather than paying the inflated price the service place charged me, I ordered the panel from RVupgrades.com, and replaced it myself. I also ordered the correct panel for my coach — notice that the above picture has a button for LPG level too, but my coach doesn’t have any propane.

Here’s the back of the old panel, showing the connectors; power and tank level on the left, and the RVC network port on the right:

Connectors

The replacement panel, model 709RVC-NLP (RVC for that port, and NLP for no-LP):

SeeLeveL II panel

I also got a gasket to hopefully protect it from water intrusion a bit:

SeeLeveL II panel

The new panel installed:

SeeLeveL II panel

Easy.

MagSafe charger on bedroom wall

I used to plug my iPhone in to a USB cable on my side of our bed, to charge it overnight. But when Apple made the switch from Lightning to USB-C for their iPhones, I needed two cables there. Jenn got a MagSafe charger on her side of the bed, which inspired me to get one for my side.

For my one, I decided to just mount it on the wall (or a wall trim, to be precise), using Command strips (which enable easy removal). Here’s my charger:

MagSafe charger

The power cord for it runs down behind the trim, behind the little box (that holds cough drops), and under the window inside a conduit:

MagSafe charger

The power supply is tucked in a corner:

Power supply

Then an extension cord goes down the wall (along with the wire for the Spyder panel) and under the bed; this is normally hidden by the bed and pillows:

Wire

The MagSafe charger and Jenn’s chargers are connected to a multi-headed splitter:

Squid

This is it in place under the bed (hard to see amongst all the other wires):

Squid

Plugged into this socket, that used to power the subwoofer, which we don’t use:

Socket

On Jenn’s side, she has multiple MagSafe chargers, plus a cable for her iPad:

Chargers

Another look at my new MagSafe charger, next to the Spyder panel:

MagSafe charger

My iPhone on the charger; it attaches magnetically, so seems to levitate on the wall:

MagSafe charger

Why is it vertically offset? This is why; using Apple’s new StandBy mode, that shows widgets (I use different ones nowadays):

MagSafe charger

A nice enhancement.

Fixing TV lift

One big issue that we got Davidson RV to investigate was that our main TV lift wasn’t going down reliably; it would often stop partway, requiring pressing the down button several times. They investigated, and determined that the lift controller was bad:

TV lift controller

Here’s the TV laying on our bed while they investigated:

They couldn’t get a replacement in time, so as a temporary workaround, they installed a switch to bypass the controller:

TV lift switch

I contacted the manufacturer, Venset in Denmark, and they referred me to their US distributor, Wood Technology.

I emailed Wood Technology, and Mike Fisher replied. We exchanged several very helpful emails, photos, and documents, discussing the issue and solutions. He provided me with a replacement controller:

New controller

The new controller, installed:

New controller

It was super easy to sync our existing remote control to the new controller, then I was able to successfully raise and lower the TV:

Remote

Here’s a peek of the lift mechanism:

Lift mechanism

Another potential issue that Mike discussed was that the curly cord could get tangled, preventing the lift from raising. So he recommended either cutting it out, or detaching the lower portion and rerouting the wire:

Wire

I did the latter, bundling the curly cord with the other wires coming from the TV:

Wire

That should avoid that issue. And we’re very glad that the lift mechanism is working properly again. Much appreciation to Mike at Wood Technology!

Replacing fuse for solar controller

Our coach came with one solar panel on the roof, and we had a couple more 190W panels added shortly after purchasing it.

Early last year I noticed that the solar controller was not receiving a charge, showing the moon icon during the day, and no amps coming in. I got NIRVC to look into that at my next service appointment, and they fixed it by replacing the fuse.

Recently, when the campground we were at had a power cut, I noticed that the problem had recurred:

Solar controller not receiving charge

I removed the panel and found the fuse:

Fuse

The fuse had indeed blown again:

Fuse

I didn’t have any mini fuses, so I bought an assortment from Amazon:

Fuses

Since it had blown twice, I figured that the increased capacity of the two extra panels was the cause, and decided to upgrade the fuse from 25 amps to 30 amps, since that is what the controller is rated at. I have no idea if that was the appropriate choice; if anyone has any guidance, let me know:

Fuse

The solar controller is now working, with the sun icon and showing 11.6 amps coming in (on a somewhat cloudy day):

Working solar controller

The controller re-mounted:

Working solar controller

Good to have that working, especially with a week without hookups at the Balloon Fiesta coming up.

Travel from Badlands to Hot Springs, South Dakota

We drove our coach 132 miles, about 2 hours of driving, from Badlands, South Dakota to Hot Springs, South Dakota.

Here’s the map route, heading west then south:

Route

An interactive map:

As mentioned yesterday, I added a mount for my 360 camera to the truck; it’s a magnetic mount, but I also secured it with three tethers, out of an abundance of caution:

Camera mount on truck

The camera mounted on the truck; I thought it would be fun to record the view from the truck on travel day:

Camera mounted on truck

The truck connected to the coach (aka toaded); ready to go:

Truck connected to coach

After leaving the campground, crossing White River:

White River

Badlands:

Badlands

Cowboy Corner in Interior, South Dakota:

Cowboy Corner

Badlands:

Badlands

A prairie dog town:

Prairiedog town

Bison:

Bison

Roadworks:

Roadworks

I caught a stowaway wasp:

Wasp

Badlands

Leaving Badlands National Park; the Badlands was good:

Leaving Badlands

The roads were not so good (using my max-zoom technique to show the bumps):

Rough road

Big sunflower field going to seed:

Big sunflower field going to seed

Dinosaur:

Dinosaur

Road

Travel center lunch stop:

Travel center lunch stop

The camera was still there (I took it inside to secure and charge it during our lunch stop; check out today’s travel video for the fun footage):

Camera still there

Travel center lunch stop

Questionable food choices:

Questionable food choices

Onward:

SD-79

The Mammoth Site:

The Mammoth Site

The city of Hot Springs has some nice historic architecture:

Hot Springs

Our destination:

Our destination

Our site:

Our site

Our coach:

Our coach

Again, check out the travel video in the next post for a combination of the usual coach dash cam footage plus the 360 cam perspective from the truck. An unusual view!

(And if you haven’t yet subscribed to the Sinclair Trails YouTube channel, please do so. It doesn’t cost anything, but will help me build my channel, which will let me do more with it.)

Basement subwoofer

In a basement compartment of our coach was a subwoofer, presumably synced with the outside TV. We hardly ever use that TV, and wouldn’t want to be booming loud bass sounds when we do, so I’ve had the subwoofer unplugged for ages, and recently removed it and put it into storage.

Here’s the subwoofer, nicely mounted on a shelf:

Subwoofer

It is a wireless subwoofer, so the only attachment is a power cord:

Subwoofer

The empty shelf:

Shelf

That seemed like a good place to put a fire extinguisher and first aid kit, so they’re out of the way, but always reachable:

First aid kit on the shelf

A much better use of that space!

Travel from Ocean City to Shelton, Washington

We drove our coach 80+ miles, about two hours of driving, from Ocean City, Washington to our home base in Shelton, Washington.

Here’s the map route, heading north (exact destination omitted for privacy):

Route

Interactive map (to Shelton instead of our actual destination):

We had no sewer at the campground, and hadn’t been particularly careful, so our grey and black tanks were both very full, as indicated on the main control panel:

Control panel with full grey and black tanks

We dumped the tanks on the way out (I didn’t get any photos of that, as there was a line).

But before that, here’s our coach preparing to leave; if you look closely, you’ll see the step partway closed; I had just closed the door, as water was dripping from the slide topper:

Our coach preparijng to leave

A closer view of the dripping water; that always happens after it has rained:

Dripping water from slide topper

On our way, with a curvy road (kinda looks like the Sinclair Trails logo!):

Curvy road

Chehalis River delta:

Chehalis River delta

Paladin watching my iPad:

Paladin watching iPad

Hoquiam:

Hoquiam

A rather narrow bridge; we drove down the center of the two lanes:

Narrow bridge

Artwork:

Artwork

International Mermaid Museum:

International Mermaid Museum

Mural:

Mural

More bridges:

Bridge

A fiver pulled over after a tire blowout:

Fiver with a tire blowout

The Elma rest area, with four lanes of dump stations:

Rest area with dump stations

A very spacious rest area:

Spacious rest area

Bear artwork:

Bear artwork

Entering Mason County, our home county:

Entering Mason County

Exit to Shelton:

Exit to Shelton

Shelton

We’re not a fan of this narrow bridge, but it’s doable:

Narrow bridge

Rail bridge work:

Rail bridge work

Bay:

Bay

Flagpole for Starlink dish

The Starlink service is a great option when we don’t have cellular service (or when we only have a network with limited data). But not so great when there are trees or other obstacles that block the signal.

RVs with a ladder will often use a FlagPole Buddy kit, that enables mounting a flagpole on the ladder. But our coach doesn’t have a ladder, so I needed a different solution.

Inspired by a post by Rick in my Tiffin Allegro Bus 2016-2018 Owners community on Facebook, I purchased a 20 foot telescoping flagpole and accessories to mount it on our coach, so we can raise the dish above our coach, giving it a better chance of a clear signal.

Another nice benefit of this system is that I can position the pole and dish anywhere around the coach, to have the most clear view of the satellites.

I bought the items Rick suggested:

20 foot telescoping flagpole from Harbor Freight
TEYOUYI adapter bushing for Starlink from Amazon
FCHO glass suction cups from Amazon
Wrap-It heavy duty velcro straps from Amazon

Flag pole, adapter, velcro, suction cups

Dish

To attach the adapter to the flagpole, I removed the two screws that hold the top of the flagpole on, then the adapter simply slips in. I used the same screws to attach the adapter, only screwing one of them in partway, to avoid intruding into the tube space:

Bushing adapter