technology

NZ: internet and cellular connectivity

While in New Zealand we of course wanted internet connectivity, for navigation, planning, entertainment, and work — Jenn worked for the first week of our trip, and I kept in touch with my customers and clients.

Like in the US, coverage can be mixed in NZ, with some areas with limited or no reception. To ensure we could get connected when needed, we planned four options: Starlink, cell-based Wi-Fi in the van, and two phone cell plans.

The van rental came with a Wi-Fi hotspot, which had an unlimited (but rather slow) plan on NZ’s 2degrees cell network. We didn’t use this very often, since it wasn’t very fast, maxing out at about 12 Mbps down, 10 Mbs up, but typically much slower. But it was definitely nice to have.

Jenn and I each got a travel eSIM for our iPhones. To maximize coverage, we each got different networks; I had a One NZ 40 GB travel plan, and Jenn got a similar Spark travel pack. I figured that 40 GB was plenty of capacity, and it was; we each used a bit less than half. These plans were designed for visitors to the country, so lasted for 90 days then expired, rather than a regular prepay account. They included voice, text, and data; there are international providers that just have data, but we wanted the safety net of voice and text, though only used those features a few times. These cell networks of course varied depending on where we were, but I measured them at around 90 Mbps down, 5 Mbps up.

Finally, we also used Starlink satellite connectivity. I brought our Starlink Mini dish and its cables in my carry-on suitcase. It may seem silly or futuristic to bring a satellite dish in a suitcase, but it’s really small, about the size of a laptop, and was super useful. Like in the US, we used Starlink as our preferred network when around the van. I measured it at around 250 Mbps down, 30 Mbps up.

I mounted the Starlink Mini dish on the metal roof of our campervan, using a magnetic mount that I had delivered to Nev’s place:

Starlink Mini

I wasn’t sure about getting powerful magnets through airport security (the guidance I read wasn’t clear), so felt it was safer to order one for delivery to NZ rather than bringing that too… plus less bulk in the suitcase.

I routed the Starlink cable across the roof and down the side, held in place with Command Strip clips (that were easily removed at the end of the trip, without leaving any residue), then through the passenger door:

Starlink Mini cable

The Starlink cable was plugged into a 12V to 24V step up adapter:

12V to 24V step up adapter

Which was in turn plugged into the 12V socket on the Ecoflow battery, so it would continue to run when the van was in motion:

Ecoflow battery

At least until the battery ran flat; it only lasted about five hours running the Starlink; it was a rather small battery. We could have plugged it into the 12V outlet on the van, but five hours was enough most of the time, and we could fall back to cellular options other times.

Between the Starlink dish and three cell plans, we usually had internet coverage when we wanted it.

Starlink Mini mounted on our truck

We sometimes explore areas without cell service, as we travel around the US… plus we are exploring New Zealand in a van. 

We really enjoy using Starlink with our coach, and wanted to bring a dish to NZ, but our gen 2 dish is rather bulky. We decided to get a Starlink Mini dish, which is much smaller, and has the router built in. It was small enough to fit in carry-on luggage for our NZ trip, and mounts on our truck and the NZ van via a magnetic mount, powered from a 12V outlet (aka cigarette lighter).

It isn’t needed all the time, so we can pause the dish when not needed. In fact, with Starlink’s current policies, they charge $5/month for Standby Mode, which has unlimited slow data (500 Kbps), so is still useful for occasional or minimal use.

Here’s the 12V power in our truck (the white USB dongle is a wireless CarPlay adapter):

12V power

The cable is routed out the rear window, which can still latch closed:

Cable out rear window

The cable is clipped to the roof, with a couple more clips on the edge to hold the cable when the dish is removed from the roof:

Cable and clips

The Starlink Mini dish is securely attached to the roof via a magnetic mount:

Starlink dish in magnetic mount

Handy!

Dashcams

If you’ve enjoyed my RV travel videos on YouTube, you may have wondered what I use to record them.

I use a dashcam, listed on Amazon as the “ROVE R2-4K Dash Cam Built-in WiFi 6 GPS Car Dashboard Camera Recorder with UHD 2160P, 2.4″ IPS Screen, 150° Wide Angle, WDR, Night Vision”.

I actually have four of these cameras: one in the coach windshield to record a timelapse of our travels, and a second one next to it to record real-time, in case of accident; one in a side window to record a timelapse of campground activities (which I occasionally post, but is usually not that excitng), plus a fourth in our truck, again recording real-time for accidents.

Here are the two in the coach windshield; the one on the left is the one used for timelapses, and the one on the right is for real-time (the box between them is the Mobileye sensor):

Dashcams

The left one is attached via Command Strips to ensure it remains straight:

Dashcam

Not the fanciest dashcams, but they get the job done.

RoamLink cellular service

We use Starlink as our primary internet service nowadays, but for places where there are too many trees to see the sky, or for one or two night stays, and on travel days, we use an unlimited RoamLink Wireless plan from MobileMustHave.

RoamLink

RoamLink is a single SIM cellular service that works with all three major carriers, and is compatible with our Pepwave modem (MMH can also sell bundles with a modem). It automatically checks each of the carriers, and picks the one with the best signal.

So anywhere we go that has cell coverage from any of the carriers, we have network connectivity. Speeds vary, of course; usually not as fast as Starlink, but often fast enough to stream etc.

We used to use separate SIMs for each network, which was rather expensive. Paying for one cell service (plus our phones, plus Starlink), while not exactly cheap, is much more affordable.

A good internet connection is important for our work and leisure, so between Starlink and RoamLink, we’re almost always covered.

Check out RoamLink (this link will give you 5% off, and a little kickback for me, but I’d recommend it even without that).

Clock in bathroom

A very minor modification this time: we added a battery-powered clock on the wall in our bathroom. It is an atomic clock, that can set the time automatically, and has convenient time zone support, useful for us as we travel around the country. Plus it shows the temperature and humidity, useful for the bathroom, and reminds us which day it is, handy when we’re still waking up:

Clock

It is attached with Command picture hanging strips, that has two velcro-like pieces that can be pulled apart easily, so I can change the batteries. Nice and convenient.

How to prevent the auto-generator start (AGS) from turning off when manually starting the generator

For Tiffin owners (or anyone with a Magnum inverter), having the auto-generator start (AGS) enabled is a good idea, even if you are normally connected to shore power. It’s useful so if there is an extended power cut at the RV park, the generator will turn on before the battery level gets too low. (I have mine set to come on for 2 hours when the battery drops to 12.2V, which is about 50%, since I have AGM batteries.)

If you boondock at any time, or use your generator while driving for AC in hot months, or even just the monthly exercise you should be giving it, you may find an annoyance with the system: if you manually start the generator, it will automatically disable the AGS feature.

But fear not, there is a solution:

  1. Press the AGS button on the Magnum control panel.
  2. Turn the dial until you get to the AGS TECH item, and press the dial to select that.
  3. Turn the dial until you get to the AGS Mode item, and press to select.
  4. Turn the dial to change from RV to Other, and press to select.

Now the AGS will remain on, even after starting the generator manually. Much more convenient.

Here’s what the AGS TECH menu item looks like:

AGS TECH menu item

And with AGS Mode: Other selected:

AGS Mode: Other

I hope this helps!

Kenwood DNR1008RVS GPS receiver

The stereo/GPS that came with our coach had a small screen, and was no longer receiving map updates, which makes it hard to rely on it for navigation. So we purchased a replacement, the Kenwood DNR1008RVS; a newer model with a 10.1” display, wireless CarPlay to connect to our iPhones, and map updates.

Here’s the old unit, to the right of the camera display:

Camera and GPS

The old unit removed, and wires for new unit:

Old unit removed, and wires for new unit

The new unit in the dash, without its screen:

New unit in dash, without screen

The screen added:

New unit with screen

It still mirrors to the TV above the windshield:

Still mirrors to TV

Though the screen on the unit is big and clear enough that there’s no need to mirror it; I can easily see it from the passenger seat:

Both screens

New unit

Using the unit with CarPlay:

New GPS

Much better!

Replaced SeeLeveL II panel

In the wet bay of our coach is a SeeLeveL II tank monitor panel, that shows the battery, fresh tank, grey tank, and black tank levels:

SeeLeveL II panel

The panel stopped working, and I had it replaced less than a year ago, but it got wet and stopped working again when doing recent wet bay mods, so I needed to replace it again. Rather than paying the inflated price the service place charged me, I ordered the panel from RVupgrades.com, and replaced it myself. I also ordered the correct panel for my coach — notice that the above picture has a button for LPG level too, but my coach doesn’t have any propane.

Here’s the back of the old panel, showing the connectors; power and tank level on the left, and the RVC network port on the right:

Connectors

The replacement panel, model 709RVC-NLP (RVC for that port, and NLP for no-LP):

SeeLeveL II panel

I also got a gasket to hopefully protect it from water intrusion a bit:

SeeLeveL II panel

The new panel installed:

SeeLeveL II panel

Easy.

MagSafe charger on bedroom wall

I used to plug my iPhone in to a USB cable on my side of our bed, to charge it overnight. But when Apple made the switch from Lightning to USB-C for their iPhones, I needed two cables there. Jenn got a MagSafe charger on her side of the bed, which inspired me to get one for my side.

For my one, I decided to just mount it on the wall (or a wall trim, to be precise), using Command strips (which enable easy removal). Here’s my charger:

MagSafe charger

The power cord for it runs down behind the trim, behind the little box (that holds cough drops), and under the window inside a conduit:

MagSafe charger

The power supply is tucked in a corner:

Power supply

Then an extension cord goes down the wall (along with the wire for the Spyder panel) and under the bed; this is normally hidden by the bed and pillows:

Wire

The MagSafe charger and Jenn’s chargers are connected to a multi-headed splitter:

Squid

This is it in place under the bed (hard to see amongst all the other wires):

Squid

Plugged into this socket, that used to power the subwoofer, which we don’t use:

Socket

On Jenn’s side, she has multiple MagSafe chargers, plus a cable for her iPad:

Chargers

Another look at my new MagSafe charger, next to the Spyder panel:

MagSafe charger

My iPhone on the charger; it attaches magnetically, so seems to levitate on the wall:

MagSafe charger

Why is it vertically offset? This is why; using Apple’s new StandBy mode, that shows widgets (I use different ones nowadays):

MagSafe charger

A nice enhancement.

Fixing TV lift

One big issue that we got Davidson RV to investigate was that our main TV lift wasn’t going down reliably; it would often stop partway, requiring pressing the down button several times. They investigated, and determined that the lift controller was bad:

TV lift controller

Here’s the TV laying on our bed while they investigated:

TV

They couldn’t get a replacement in time, so as a temporary workaround, they installed a switch to bypass the controller:

TV lift switch

I contacted the manufacturer, Venset in Denmark, and they referred me to their US distributor, Wood Technology.

I emailed Wood Technology, and Mike Fisher replied. We exchanged several very helpful emails, photos, and documents, discussing the issue and solutions. He provided me with a replacement controller:

New controller

The new controller, installed:

New controller

It was super easy to sync our existing remote control to the new controller, then I was able to successfully raise and lower the TV:

Remote

Here’s a peek of the lift mechanism:

Lift mechanism

Another potential issue that Mike discussed was that the curly cord could get tangled, preventing the lift from raising. So he recommended either cutting it out, or detaching the lower portion and rerouting the wire:

Wire

I did the latter, bundling the curly cord with the other wires coming from the TV:

Wire

That should avoid that issue. And we’re very glad that the lift mechanism is working properly again. Much appreciation to Mike at Wood Technology!