2023 modifications

Happy New Year! 🎉

As we begin 2024, let’s look back at 2023, as I did this time last year.

I will have a series of blog posts reviewing topics from last year. I schedule my posts following a pattern: Modification Mondays, Travel Tuesdays, Whereabouts Wednesdays, and To and Fro Thursdays and Fridays (okay, those last ones are bit of a stretch). So I will post my annual summaries in that order too, starting with modifications today.

We have done a number of modifications to our 2017 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40SP motorhome, to make it more comfortable as a full-time home, to improve the features, or to repair issues. This is a summary of some of the changes done in 2023; also check out the changes from 2022 and 2021.

For each modification topic I include a link to the corresponding blog post, and a sample picture; see the post for details. (Tip: you can click or tap on either the link or picture to go to the corresponding post.)

You can see all of the modification-related blog posts via the modifications category, with the earliest posts at the top, or the latest posts at the top.

Upgraded TST TPMS display:

Old and new units

New mattress:

Mattress

Slide topper bracing to reduce flapping in wind:

Cord and bungee

Micro-Air EasyTouchRV smart thermostats:

New units

Improved tow bar pins:

Tow bar pins and brake controller pins

Govee smart thermometers:

Living room sensor

Replaced more recessed lights:

Replaced lights

Replaced carbon monoxide detector:

Wires connected

Dryer magnets:

Door and dryer

Water softener regeneration and backflush hoses and adapters:

Regenerating

Professionally cleaning gray and black tanks:

Flushing

Water filter bag:

Filter and bag

Adding a bedside Spyder touch panel:

Panel

David’s lap desk:

SideTrak screen

Jenn’s movable height-adjustable desk:

Jenn's desk

Ceiling fan motor replacement again:

Motor mounted and connected

Phone holders:

Phone holder

Engine compartment door stop replacement:

Door stop

Hat hooks:

Hat hooks

Fridge latch repair:

Catches and latches

A bubble level helps us check when leveling our coach:

Bubble level

Extended cup holders:

Cup holder extender

Fresh tank flush:

Fresh tank drain

Replaced chassis batteries and more at Oregon Motorcoach Center:

New chassis batteries

Tire covers:

Tire cover

Dryer vent padding:

Dryer vent

Flagpole for Starlink dish:

Starlink on flagpole

15 amp to 50 amp power adapter:

Extension cord

Truck canopy, slide tray, lift kit:

Slide tray

Basement subwoofer:

Subwoofer

Replacing bathroom faucets and soap dispensers:

Old and new faucets

SnapPads:

SnapPads

Replacing wiper blades:

New and old blades

Fixing windshield washer hose:

T-junction

Fixing black tank flush:

No-Fuss Flush

Fixing bathroom vent lid motor:

Wires

360 camera mount on truck:

360 camera on mount

Replacing fuse for solar controller:

Working solar controller

Replacing fridge drawer cover:

Replacement part

Braking: Bad:

Brake repair

I hope you found these posts interesting and useful.

Braking: Bad

After leaving the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta, we were scheduled to head back to Tucumcari. But about halfway there, we had a high temperature warning on our tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS):

High temperature on TPMS

We stopped at the next opportunity, and waited a while to let it cool down, then we continued. But it got high again, so we pulled off at the next rest area:

High temperature on TPMS

Even after parking, the temperature continued to rise into the danger zone, which indicated a serious issue:

High temperature on TPMS

So we contacted our preferred roadside assistance company, Coach-Net. We initially thought it might be a tire needing replacement, so were going to get Coach-Net to bring us a replacement (or two, since really should replace both front tires). An expensive prospect, with these large tires costing about a grand each.

But on further research we concluded it was more likely a brake issue. Coach-Net sent out a mobile truck repair tech to investigate:

Brake repair

Brake repair

He pulled off the tire, and looked at the brake. He couldn’t get the wheel to turn; he determined that the brake had seized up:

Brake repair

Brake repair

He wasn’t able to free up the brake (perhaps lacking the experience or tools). It was a Saturday, so we had to wait at the rest area for two nights until Monday before we could get towed to a truck repair shop. Finally, a heavy-duty tow truck arrived:

Towed from Santa Rosa to Moriarty, New Mexico

And lifted our front tires, which is the second-best way to tow our coach, since we have independent front suspension (the best way is to put it on a low-boy trailer, which wasn’t feasible since the wheel wouldn’t turn):

Towed from Santa Rosa to Moriarty, New Mexico

The drive shaft was removed, so the rear wheels would freely turn:

Towed from Santa Rosa to Moriarty, New Mexico

Also, the mudflap was held up, so wouldn’t scrape on the road:

Towed from Santa Rosa to Moriarty, New Mexico

Towed from Santa Rosa to Moriarty, New Mexico

Towed from Santa Rosa to Moriarty, New Mexico

Towed from Santa Rosa to Moriarty, New Mexico

We arrived safely at the truck repair shop (see a subsequent post for more details and photos of the towing adventure):

Towed from Santa Rosa to Moriarty, New Mexico

The techs at West Truck Services Center in Moriarty, New Mexico got to work. They were able to free up the stuck brake (something the first tech and tow driver couldn’t manage), so we would be able to move the coach into the shop:

Brake repair

They also restored the drive shaft:

Brake repair

Brake repair

In the shop, we put blocks under the hydraulic jacks on the passenger side, to lift up that side, plus a jack under the wheel frame to lift the tire off the ground:

Brake repair

Brake repair

They then were able to remove the tire:

Brake repair

The brake disk was rather scuffed:

Brake repair

The jack:

Brake repair

Brake repair

They determined that the issue was that the lower brake piston was protruding too much:

Brake repair

Brake repair

They were able to get replacement parts overnighted, and spent the next day rebuilding the brake, including smoothing out the disk:

Brake repair

Brake repair

Brake repair

Brake repair

Brake repair

They worked late to get us finished up, then we were able to get back on the road. (Unfortunately I didn’t get any pictures of them reassembling the brake.)

So we spent two nights at the rest stop waiting for a tow (due to the weekend), then two nights at the repair shop while they diagnosed and fixed the brake. Not too bad.

Stay tuned for more posts on our two unexpected stays, the towing experience, and a night drive after the repair was complete.

Replacing fridge drawer cover

It’s said that an RV is a rolling earthquake, as things bounce around while driving down the road. Every time we open the fridge for the first time after (or during) a drive, we are careful to do so slowly, in case anything fell, like this occasion:

Fallen items in fridge

Heavy stuff like that OJ and wine landing on the cover of the bottom drawer in the fridge cracked it down the middle:

Cracked fridge drawer cover

I temporarily patched it with glue:

Cracked fridge drawer cover

But that obviously wasn’t a very satisfactory solution. Fortunately, I was able to find the replacement part on Amazon:

Replacement part

Which was trivial to swap out:

Replaced fridge drawer cover

Much better!

Replacing fuse for solar controller

Our coach came with one solar panel on the roof, and we had a couple more 190W panels added shortly after purchasing it.

Early last year I noticed that the solar controller was not receiving a charge, showing the moon icon during the day, and no amps coming in. I got NIRVC to look into that at my next service appointment, and they fixed it by replacing the fuse.

Recently, when the campground we were at had a power cut, I noticed that the problem had recurred:

Solar controller not receiving charge

I removed the panel and found the fuse:

Fuse

Fuse

The fuse had indeed blown again:

Fuse

I didn’t have any mini fuses, so I bought an assortment from Amazon:

Fuses

Since it had blown twice, I figured that the increased capacity of the two extra panels was the cause, and decided to upgrade the fuse from 25 amps to 30 amps, since that is what the controller is rated at. I have no idea if that was the appropriate choice; if anyone has any guidance, let me know:

Fuse

The solar controller is now working, with the sun icon and showing 11.6 amps coming in (on a somewhat cloudy day):

Working solar controller

The controller re-mounted:

Working solar controller

Good to have that working, especially with a week without hookups at the Balloon Fiesta coming up.

360 camera mount on truck

I have an Insta360 X3 action camera, that you may have seen footage from in previous posts. When capturing video or a timelapse of a drive, I’ve previously held the invisible selfie stick out the window, which is a bit awkward.

So I thought I’d get a mount to attach it to the roof of the truck.

I opted for a magnetic mount, since our truck is often a bit dirty after being dragged behind our motorhome, or driving on dirt roads, so I thought a suction cup mount may not work well.

To avoid risking losing the camera if the magnets fail, I secured it with three safety tether cords; I initially only used one, but added a couple more when I wanted to use the camera on a travel day, since I would be in the coach and wouldn’t be able to keep an eye on it. (I removed the camera during a lunch stop, both so nobody steals it, and to recharge it for the remainder of the trip.)

Here’s the camera mount and tethers on our dusty truck:

Camera mount

One of the tethers was secured to the side mirror:

Secured to mirror

And the other two were secured to back seat ceiling grab handles:

Secured to grab handle

Another angle:

Camera mount

The 360 camera on the mount, oriented sideways for reduced wind resistance:

360 camera on mount

I don’t leave the mount and tethers there all the time, though they’re pretty unobtrusive, and fun for recording scenic drives and coach travel days. I might try variations on this placement in the future.

Stay tuned for a travel day video tomorrow, with a picture-in-picture of the back of the coach from this camera!

Fixing bathroom vent lid motor

The lift motor housing broke on the vent in our rear bathroom, so I replaced it.

Here’s the vent, with the decorative wooden cover open:

Vent

The broken housing:

Broken housing

I ordered a new motor from Amazon (cheaper than from the Tiffin parts store, though availability may be spotty):

New motor

Removing the old motor:

Removing old motor

Above that, the lift mechanism, which had become detached (causing the breakage):

Lift mechanism

The motor just plugs in to a couple of connectors:

Wires

The new motor and housing in place, after re-mounting the lift mechanism:

New motor

All better:

Vent

An easy fix, and as a bonus, it’s quieter now when opening and closing the vent.

Fixing black tank flush

The black tank flush on my coach stopped working. Apparently this is a common problem, if the flush nozzles get gummed up with crud or water calcification.

One of the members of my Tiffin Allegro Bus 2016-2018 Owners group on Facebook did a post about fixing theirs, which was very helpful. So I embarked on this adventure too.

The hardest thing is getting to it. I needed to remove this panel from the side of the coach:

Panel

The right side is easy enough, with a couple of brackets and screws easily accessed with the adjacent basement door open:

Bracket and screws

But the left side was tricker, with no door there, so I needed to insert a screwdriver between two panels. To protect the paint, I wrapped the screwdriver shaft with painters tape:

Screwdriver with painters tape

Then inserted the screwdriver to reach the four screws:

Screwdriver

That done, I was able to remove the panel:

Removed panel

The fresh water fill hose limited how much I could move the panel:

Fresh water fill

So I disconnected that too:

Disconnected

My little folding work stool was very helpful for this operation:

Stool and tools

Let’s have a look around, since I don’t get to see this stuff often. Here’s the black tank; the green circuit board is the See-Level tank sensor, and the yellow rectangle is one of the two sensors for the rear toilet (the other is above that, obscured by wires):

Black tank

To the left of the black tank is the gray water tank:

Gray tank

Below both waste tanks is the fresh water tank; the pipe in the foreground is the overflow and vent:

Fresh water tank and overflow

Pipes and wires from the bedroom and rear bathroom:

Pipes and wires

The horizontal-ish pipes are for the central vacuum system:

Vacuum

On the other side of that wall, a vacuum inlet and hatch in the adjacent compartment (we don’t use this vacuum; preferring to use a cordless stick vac):

Vacuum

Anyway, to business. Here’s the culprit, the “No-Fuss” Flush:

No-Fuss Flush

I removed it from the black tank; a bit gunky:

Removed

Cleaned up somewhat:

Cleaned

I tested it, but it still didn’t work very well, so I drilled out the holes a bit more (on the bottom and sides):

Drilled

That solved it; the holes sprayed nicely.

To re-mount, I used plumbers putty to seal it:

Plumbers putty

And re-mounted it (the water is from testing it):

Re-attached

Then just a matter of re-attaching the fresh water fill hose and re-mounting the coach panel.

All better now. Hopefully I won’t have to do that again any time soon, but it wasn’t particularly difficult, other than removing and re-attaching the coach panel.

Fixing windshield washer hose

The windshield washer fluid suddenly stopped working. Upon investigation, I discovered that the hose had become disconnected.

Here’s the washer fluid reservoir:

Washer fluid reservoir

Hard to tell, but the disconnected hose is hanging down in the foreground:

Disconnected hose

Looking up inside the front cap, I can see a T-junction where the hose should go:

T-junction

So I re-connected the hose, and used a small zip tie to hold it in place (and pushed the other two hoses fully onto the junction):

Re-connected hose

It’s working well again now.

Replacing wiper blades

An easy and necessary maintenance item for our coach is to replace the windshield wiper blades on occasion.

Our 2017 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40SP motorhome takes a pair of 40-inch frame- or saddle-style blades. I previously ordered some from etrailer.com, but most recently got some from Amazon.

New and old blades:

New and old blades

They are each attached to their arm via a bolt; I have the bolt inserted from the top, so even if the nut comes off, the bolt won’t fall out:

Mounting bolt

Mounting nut:

Mounting nut

The new blades installed (with one obscured by a Magne-Shade cover):

Installed

Easy!

SnapPads

When we park our coach on an unlevel site, typically high in the back, our front hydraulic jacks sometimes can’t cope, so we need to add extra blocks between the jacks and jack pad:

Jacks, blocks, jack pad

To help with that, I purchased a couple of SnapPads, just for the front jacks. We can’t get them for the back jacks, as the jacks are too close to the rear wheels. SnapPads are permanently-attached pads that expand the footprint of the jack a little, and add an extra inch of height, so I hoped that’d help with unlevel sites.

(If you’re in the market for them, you can save 10% off SnapPads with the discount code: DAVID08638.)

Here’s a SnapPad before installation:

SnapPad

It’s simple to install a SnapPad; just squirt a little dish soap around the inner rim, to make it easier to get it on, then line it up below the jack, and lower the jack into place (it helps to have two people, one to control the jack, one to tweak the alignment. Here’s a SnapPad after attaching and lifting up a bit:

SnapPad

Two SnapPads:

SnapPads

Retracted jacks (fun fact: that big box between the jacks is our 150 gallon fuel tank):

SnapPads

The jacks on top of my usual jack pads, which I use on all surfaces other than concrete:

Jack with jack pad

A nice addition.